From the Gasthof Feuerstein at the end of the Gschnitz valley, the route first climbs up over many serpentines to the Pinnisjoch and the Innsbrucker Hütte - an entertaining challenge in the face of the mighty pyramid of the Habicht and amidst flocks of sheep, despite the steep nature of the path. The path then winds its way up and down along the ridge and over the limestone wall to the foot of the Ilmspitze. After an ascent of about 4 hours you have reached the beginning of the via ferrata. A short break with food is certainly recommended here, as this last section of the tour is the most demanding and difficult. If one finally feels ready for the last, crowning challenge, the fixed ropes along the north-west edge go up. On mostly good, dolomite-like rock and very exposed over airy plates, chimneys and gullies, this is a special experience. After a good 2 hours of climbing you have reached the summit cross - here a unique view of an untouched, wild mountain world awaits you.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
Access From the parking lot at the GH Feuerstein you first walk about 200m into the valley to the material cable car. Here trail nr. 60 to the Innsbrucker Hütte turns off to the right, which first crosses the stream to the other side of the valley and then follows it up over a grassy gully and pastures. From the Innsbrucker Hütte (or the Pinnisjoch), the path then continues along the ridge outwards, past the limestone wall to the foot of the Ilmspitze to an easily recognisable material hut. The way over the ridge is partly quite exposed and includes the one or other rope insurance (1- and A). The entrance to the via ferrata is well marked in the immediate vicinity of the material hut.
Via ferrata The via ferrata to the Ilmspitze stretches over 300m, which takes about 2 hours. At the beginning it goes over flat terrain very exposed and steeply upwards (insured with clamps, difficulty C-D) to a grass band leading to the left. Laterally across stepped sections (A-B) the fixed rope continues to a steep step (C). Immediately behind it, a gutter-like chimney begins before you find yourself again in a steep wall section (C). Once you have climbed this section, you have to cross a deep crevice with a spreading step. The greatest difficulties are overcome, the ridge is now followed by easier terrain to the summit plateau.
Topo via ferrata https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/tour/topo/7492/ilmspitze-klettersteig-topo-gschnitztal.png
Descent Descend the top third as if climbing the via ferrata, then turn off towards the Gschnitztal valley at a large signposting and follow the markings downwards over gullies, bands, two rubble fields and a pillar. At the foot of the wall, climbing tracks lead back to the material hut (see topo). The descent is in places very tricky, exposed and also prone to falling rocks - here you should stay as short as possible. If there is little oncoming traffic, it is possible to descend completely via the via ferrata.
SAFETY ADVICE The via ferrata to the Ilmspitze is well equipped and insured, but also very airy, steep and exposed (difficulty C-D). The descent is partly over unpleasantly brittle and rocky terrain - accordingly, it should only be attempted by experienced and skilled climbers. In bad weather conditions, the grass or earthy passages can quickly become very slippery and dangerous. In early summer, you should also be careful of old snow fields that have to be crossed.
TIP OF THE AUTHOR The tour to the Ilmspitz including the ascent and descent to the via ferrata in one day is a strenuous undertaking. It is more pleasant to spend a night at the beautifully located Innsbrucker Hütte and then to attempt the summit the next day. *** Translated with www.DeepL.com/Translator (free version) ***
